The KFC Double Down, collector's editions, and the illusion of opulence

The KFC Double Down is cheese and bacon sandwiched between two chicken fillets, and people lost their damn minds when it was first introduced. I am yet to eat one. Even so, this sandwich fascinates me.

The currently-available-in-the-UK Zinger Double Down is 705 calories. That's a hefty sando, but not worlds away from the chain's Fillet Tower Burger at 620. When The Guardian wrote the histrionic headline "KFC doubles down on artery-clogging bunless chicken burger", the sandwich that inspired them to quote a blogger calling it "the vilest food product created by man" was a mere 540 calories. That's slightly over a medium baked potato and a tin o' beans. It vastly outweighs that in fat and salt, of course, although also boasts over double the protein.

There's evidently something going on here beyond the macros. "The Double Down is clearly one of those products with a death wish appeal," a medical advocacy group wrote in an open letter to KFC parent company Yum brands at the time.